Installation
Check out our easy installation video guides here
or read through the product installation instructions below:
Basic tools are required for simple installations:
Protective gloves and glasses
– PPE, hearing and eye protection, gloves, and work boots
– Tape measure and marking pen
– Dead blow hammer or rubber mallet
– Trench digging equipment, pick and shovel
– Impact driver with 5/16 hex head
– Angle grinder with a thin cutting disc suitable for stainless steel
– String line and/or markup paint, builder’s level
– Sealing compound such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint
– Clamp or “vice-grip” pliers
No tools are needed to install closed Ring Planters and Triple Tier Ring Planters.
Most installations require the following steps:
Measure and mark the area where the edging will be installed.
Dig a trench along the marked line, deep enough to accommodate the edging.
Place the steel edging into the trench, ensuring it is level or following the gradient.
Secure the edging with stakes and connectors as you work along a run.
Backfill the trench with soil, ensuring the edging remains upright and secure.
Tips for a Successful Installation
Work off a plan to help balance your design and measure the materials required.
Use a level to ensure the edging is straight as you complete your installation.
Install large projects in small sections to make the installation process more manageable.
A further step-by-step in depth installation guide is provided for each profile height in the information below.
1. Site Selection and installation: Ring planters are typically installed on level ground, a flat smooth surface will make the the alignment of the ring planter sections prior to riveting together much easier. Line up the section pieces so the holes match up. A light tap with a rubber hammer can help ease the ring’s edging lip over the connector section; a small drift or 4mm pin punch can also help align the holes especially on large profile rings. Simply insert the supplied rivets straight through edging ring and the aligned connector. Secure the top rivet first; ensuring that the ring and connectors is flush. Then secure the bottom rivets, Complete the process by securing middle rivets. If possible working on joining a ring is made much easier if the ring is tipped on it’s side and then pressure applied directly downward while squeezing off the rivets until they pop. Ring planters can be set into sloping ground by first levelling out a base and back filling. Coating all surfaces that are in contact with soil with a waterpoofing treatment such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint will greatly increase the service life of your ring planter and is highly recommended.
2. Developing a Protective Patina: The weathering steel used in SHAPESCAPER Redcor products will begin forming its protective rust “patina” over a couple of weeks and become fully weathered between 6 months and two years, depending on the exposure to moisture. Please note the use of strong acid or salt to accelerate the process will permanently damage the protective properties of weathering steel. While the patina is forming “rust coloured” run off may occur, care should be taken around porous surfaces travertine pavers and cement. Any leaching should be removed promptly, staining should be dispersed regularly by hosing the area clean, a light spraying of the weathering steel with water will also help speed up the patina process at the same time. A mild 10% solution of white vinegar applied to the run off area prior to washing down can be used for heavier staining.
3. Care of Galvanised Steel Rings: The galvanised steel used in SHAPESCAPER Galvabond products is essentially maintenance free. Care however should be taken not to accidentally remove the protective zinc coating with sharp tools. The mild acids in some garden sprays can also damage the protective zinc coating, any overspray should be promptly removed with using fresh water. Over time the bright metal finish of a newly installed galvanised steel ring will develop a muted soft grey finish.
4. Proper Drainage: Ensure the planter has adequate drainage to prevent water logging. You can add a layer of gravel or small rocks at the bottom before adding soil. This not only improves drainage but also helps aerate the roots, promoting healthier plant growth.
5. Securing Large Rings: While the majority of SHAPESCAPER standard rings are self supporting large diameter rings over 2400mm may need appropriate stakes for additional support especially when installing higher profiles. Two stakes per 2400mm arc is usually sufficient.
SHAPESCAPER steel edging is essentially maintenance-free
- Abrasions to the rust patina, even back to bright metal, will reform to a protective layer. Redcor steel is not a coated steel, but has protective weather properties throughout its thickness
Cleaning tips
- Occasional washing down with water
- Any run-off from the initial weathering process can be removed with a mild 10% white vinegar solution if done relatively soon after any staining occurs. If installing in areas sensitive to run-off the patina should be allowed to develop off site and then installed.
1. Site Selection and installation: Planters should be installed on level ground, a flat smooth surface will make the the alignment of the planter sections prior to screwing together much easier. Line up the section pieces so the holes match up, then simply screw straight through connecting ribs using the supplied hex screws. Partially secure the top screw first; ensuring that the top 40mm return face is flush. Then fully secure the bottom screw, returning to fully screw the top screw. Complete the process by fully tightening the middle screws bringing the two ribs together until a minimal gap is visible between the exterior surfaces. If required planters can be set into sloping ground by first levelling out a base and back filling. Coating all surfaces that are in contact with soil with a waterpoofing treatment such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint will greatly increase the service life of your planter and is highly recommended.
2. Choosing the Right Plants: Select plants that complement the modern look of a “rusty” steel box planter. Consider the size and growth habits of the plants to ensure they fit well within the planter. For instance, succulents and cacti might be an excellent choice in a water restricted environment. Topiary or standard roses might suit a more formal garden. Natives are always a perfect choice in many gardens, foliage colours can vary from frosted silvers through to magnolia green and warm reds. Most plants look stunning growing in the earthy tones of a weathered SHAPESCAPER Planter.
3. Developing a Protective Patina: The weathering steel used in SHAPESCAPER products will begin forming its protective rust “patina” over a couple of weeks and become fully weathered between 6 months and two years, depending on the exposure to moisture. Please note the use of strong acid or salt to accelerate the process will permanently damage the protective properties of weathering steel. While the patina is forming “rust coloured” run off may occur, care should be taken around porous surfaces travertine pavers and cement. Any leaching should be removed promptly, staining should be dispersed regularly by hosing the area clean, a light spraying of the weathering steel with water will also help speed up the patina process at the same time. A mild 10% solution of white vinegar applied to the run off area prior to washing down can be used for heavier staining.
4. Proper Drainage: Ensure the planter has adequate drainage to prevent water logging. You can add a layer of gravel or small rocks at the bottom before adding soil. This not only improves drainage but also helps aerate the roots, promoting healthier plant growth.
1. Site Selection and Installation: Planters should be installed on level ground, a flat smooth surface will make the the alignment of the planter sections prior to screwing together much easier. Line up the section pieces so the holes match up, then simply screw straight through connecting ribs using the supplied hex screws. Partially secure the top screw first; ensuring that the top 40mm return face is flush. Then fully secure the bottom screw, returning to fully screw the top screw. Complete the process by fully tightening the middle screws bringing the two ribs together until a minimal gap is visible between the exterior surfaces. If required planters can be set into sloping ground by first levelling out a base and back filling. Coating all surfaces that are in contact with soil with a waterpoofing treatment such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint will greatly increase the service life of your planter and is highly recommended.
2. Choosing the Right Plants: Select plants that complement the modern look of a “rusty” steel hexagonal planter. Consider the size and growth habits of the plants to ensure they fit well within the planter. For instance, succulents and cacti might be an excellent choice in a water restricted environment. Topiary or standard roses might suit a more formal garden. Natives are always a perfect choice in many gardens, foliage colours can vary from frosted silvers through to magnolia green and warm reds. Most plants look stunning growing in the earthy tones of a weathered SHAPESCAPER Planter.
3. Developing a Protective Patina: The weathering steel used in SHAPESCAPER products will begin forming its protective rust “patina” over a couple of weeks and become fully weathered between 6 months and two years, depending on the exposure to moisture. Please note the use of strong acid or salt to accelerate the process will permanently damage the protective properties of weathering steel. While the patina is forming “rust coloured” run off may occur, care should be taken around porous surfaces travertine pavers and cement. Any leaching should be removed promptly, staining should be dispersed regularly by hosing the area clean, a light spraying of the weathering steel with water will also help speed up the patina process at the same time. A mild 10% solution of white vinegar applied to the run off area prior to washing down can be used for heavier staining.
4. Proper Drainage: Ensure the planter has adequate drainage to prevent water logging. You can add a layer of gravel or small rocks at the bottom before adding soil. This not only improves drainage but also helps aerate the roots, promoting healthier plant growth.
1. Site Selection and installation: Both 765mm Triple Ring Planters are ready made and require no installation as they are fully welded as completed units. The larger 1150mm diameter main rings are supplied in two halves, for easy transport and handling. They are easily assembled on site using the supplied rivets. The larger diameter planters should be assembled on level ground, a flat smooth surface will make the the alignment of the planter sections prior to riveting together much easier. Line up the section pieces so the holes match up, then insert a rivet through to the attached connector plate. Secure the top rivet first; then secure the bottom rivet. Complete the process by riveting through the remaining middle holes. Ensure that the connector plate and ring section are flush when fitting the rivets. If required planters can be set into sloping ground by first leveling out a base and back filling. Coating all surfaces that are in contact with soil with a waterpoofing treatment such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint will greatly increase the service life of your planter and is highly recommended.
2. Choosing the Right Plants: Select plants that complement the modern look of a “rusty” steel box planter. Consider the size and growth habits of the plants to ensure they fit well within the planter. For instance, succulents and cacti might be an excellent choice in a water restricted environment. Natives are always a perfect choice in many gardens, foliage colours can vary from frosted silvers through to magnolia green and warm reds. Dwarf citrus and herbs are always a favourite choice in any setting. Most plants look stunning growing in the earthy tones of a weathered SHAPESCAPER Planter.
3. Developing a Protective Patina: The weathering steel used in SHAPESCAPER products will begin forming its protective rust “patina” over a couple of weeks and become fully weathered between 6 months and two years, depending on the exposure to moisture. Please note the use of strong acid or salt to accelerate the process will permanently damage the protective properties of weathering steel. While the patina is forming “rust coloured” run off may occur, care should be taken around porous surfaces travertine pavers and cement. Any leaching should be removed promptly, staining should be dispersed regularly by hosing the area clean, a light spraying of the weathering steel with water will also help speed up the patina process at the same time. A mild 10% solution of white vinegar applied to the run off area prior to washing down can be used for heavier staining.
4. Proper Drainage: Ensure the planter has adequate drainage to prevent water logging. You can add a layer of gravel or small rocks at the bottom before adding soil. This not only improves drainage but also helps aerate the roots, promoting healthier plant growth.
Step-by-step guide
– Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– We recommend the use of a sealing compound such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint on any edging below ground level
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a depth of 30mm
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 75mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 500mm onsite. Hand shape using your body weight to gently and gradually bend the edging. Hold the end of the edging up with one hand while running your other hand along the edging with downward pressure to form the curve. Work in small increments, slowly adding to the shape of the curve. If you over-shaped a curve simply apply pressure in a similar way from the other side to reduce the radius of the curve and maintain the correct line
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250mm
Hand shaping 90-degree corners and other angles
– Do not score the edging with an angle grinder when forming tight bends; this is unnecessary and weakens the corner.
– Can be easily hand bent onsite
– Achieve neat corners by marking the position at least 300mm from the end of a length. This will allow enough leverage to easily start bending the edging.
– Place a stake across the edging at the marked position and place your feet as close to the sides of the edging as possible to secure the stake.
– Avoid straining your back by using your knees and legs muscles to bend the edging slightly over 90 degrees, then adjust to the desired angle.
– Using a small piece of wood or similar under the end of the edging will make it easier to get your fingers underneath to start the bending process.
– The top part of the bend will have a neatly tucked-in curved lip.
– The lower part of the edging will have a gently rounded flare, which will be below ground level.
90-degree corners are also available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE7520)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI7520)
Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS230R) Ribbed Stakes
– Three stakes are suitable for most applications; 4 stakes may be required for long straight runs, or if installing in loose or sandy soil
– Fit a connector to each edging length using two of the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the holes on the stakes
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing, use a “dead blow” hammer or rubber mallet to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– If the stake holes don’t align with the existing edging holes, simply screw into the edging using the holes in the back of the stakes as a guide
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then backfill the rear section
– Wash down the face of the edging with a mild detergent to encourage the even development of a protective “rust” patina
– The edging will start developing a patina in about two weeks and become fully weathered between 6 months and two years depending on exposure to moisture. The use of stronger acid or salt will permanently damage the protective properties of weathering steel
Prepare the site.
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours.
– Measure and mark out the area; step back to visualize the full context of your design.
– Lay out your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts.
– We recommend the use of a sealing compound such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint on any edging below ground level
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots.
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 30mm.
Cutting and shaping the edging.
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements.
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc.
– 100mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 500mm on-site. Hand shape using your body weight to gently and gradually bend the edging. Hold the end of the edging up with one hand while running your other hand along the edging with downward pressure to form the curve. Work in small increments, slowly adding to the shape of the curve. If you over-shaped a curve simply apply pressure in a similar way from the other side to reduce the radius of the curve and maintain the correct line.
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250mm.
Hand shaping 90-degree corners and other angles.
– Do not score the edging with an angle grinder when forming tight bends; this is unnecessary and weakens the corner.
– Can be easily hand bent on-site.
– Achieve neat corners by marking the position at least 300mm from the end of a length. This will allow enough leverage to easily start bending the edging.
– Place a stake across the edging at the marked position and place your feet as close to the sides of the edging as possible to secure the stake.
– Avoid straining your back by using your knees and leg muscles to bend the edging slightly over 90 degrees, then adjust to the desired angle.
– Using a small piece of wood or similar under the end of the edging will make it easier to get your fingers underneath to start the bending process.
– The top part of the bend will have a neatly tucked-in curved lip.
– The lower part of the edging will have a gently rounded flare, which will be below ground level.
90-degree corners are also available as stock items.
– External (lip on the inside SECE10020).
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI10020).
Installing and securing the edging.
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed. (SS300R) Ribbed Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable for most applications; 4 stakes may be required for long straight runs, or if installing in loose or sandy soil.
– Fit a connector to each edging length using two of the supplied hex head self-tapping screws, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground.
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the holes on the stakes.
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run.
– Taking care to maintain the spacing, use a “dead blow” hammer or rubber mallet to guide each stake down to the correct depth.
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure it to the previous connector.
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws.
– If the stake holes don’t align with the existing edging holes, simply screw into the edging using the holes in the back of the stakes as a guide.
Final adjustments and finishing touches.
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging, then backfill the rear section.
– To accelerate the protective “rust” patina you can wash down the face of the edging with a mild detergent and then apply a 10% white vinegar solution. .
– The edging will start developing a patina in about two weeks and become fully weathered between 6 months and two years depending on exposure to moisture. The use of stronger acid or salt will permanently damage the protective properties of weathering steel.
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– We recommend the use of a sealing compound such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint on any edging below ground level
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 40mm
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 150mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 500mm onsite. Hand shape using your body weight to gently and gradually bend the edging. Hold the end of the edging up with one hand while running your other hand along the edging with downward pressure to form the curve. Work in small increments, slowly adding to the shape of the curve. If you curve a piece of edging too far simply apply pressure in a similar way from the other side to reduce the radius of the curve.
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250m
Hand shaping 90-degree corners and other angles
– Do not score the edging with an angle grinder when forming tight bends; this is unnecessary and weakens the corner.
– Can be easily hand bent onsite
– Achieve neat corners by marking the position at least 300mm from the end of a length. This will allow enough leverage to easily start bending the edging.
– Place a stake across the edging at the marked position and place your feet as close to the sides of the edging as possible to secure the stake.
– Avoid straining your back by using your knees and legs muscles to bend the edging slightly over 90 degrees, then adjust to the desired angle.
– Using a small piece of wood or similar under the end of the edging will make it easier to get your fingers underneath to start the bending process.
– The top part of the bend will have a neatly tucked-in curved lip.
– The lower part of the edging will have a gently rounded flare, which will be below ground level.
90-degree corners are also available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE150G20)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI150G20)
Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS400R) Ribbed Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable most applications; 4 stakes maybe required for long straight runs, or when installed in loose or sandy soil
– Fit a connector to each edging length using two of the supplied hex head self-tapping screws, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the holes on the stakes
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing use a “dead blow” hammer or rubber mallet to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– If the stakes holes don’t align with the existing edging holes simply screw into the edging using the holes in the back of the stakes as a guide
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– Wash down the face of the edging with water to clean
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– We recommend the use of a sealing compound such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint on any edging below ground level
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 50mm
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 185mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 500mm onsite. Use your body weight to gently and gradually bend the edging. Hold the end of the edging up with one hand while running your other hand along the edging with downward pressure to form the curve. Work in small increments, slowly adding to the shape of the curve. If you over-shaped a curve simply apply pressure in a similar way from the other side to reduce the radius of the curve and maintain the correct line
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250m
Hand shaping 90-degree corners and other angles
– Do not score the edging with an angle grinder when forming tight bends; this is unnecessary and weakens the corner.
– Edging up to 185mm in height can be easily bent onsite.
– Achieve neat corners by marking the position at least 300mm from the end of a length. This will allow enough leverage to easily start bending the edging.
– Place a stake across the edging at the marked position and place your feet as close to the sides of the edging as possible to secure the stake.
– Avoid straining your back by using your knees and legs muscles to bend the edging slightly over 90 degrees, then adjust to the desired angle.
– Using a small piece of wood or similar under the end of the edging will make it easier to get your fingers underneath to start the bending process.
– The top part of the bend will have a neatly tucked-in curved lip.
– The lower part of the edging will have a gently rounded flare, which will be below ground level.
90-degree corners are also available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE18520)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI18520)
Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS400R) Ribbed Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable for most applications; 4 stakes may be required for long straight runs, or if installing in loose or sandy soil.
– Fit a connector to each edging length using two of the supplied hex head self-tapping screws, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the holes on the stakes
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing use a “dead blow” hammer or rubber mallet to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– If the stakes holes don’t align with the existing edging holes simply screw into the edging using the holes in the back of the stakes as a guide
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– To accelerate the protective “rust” patina you can wash down the face of the edging with a mild detergent and then apply a 10% white vinegar solution.
– The edging will start developing a patina in about two weeks and become fully weathered between 6 months and two years depending on exposure to moisture. The use of stronger acid or salt will permanently damage the protective properties of weathering steel
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– We recommend the use of a sealing compound such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint on any edging below ground level
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 70mm
– Auger 150mm diameter holes to a minimum depth of 270mm at a suitable spacing for the required number of stakes. A SHAPESCAPER stake driving tool may also be used where the ground density permits.
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 230mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 700mm onsite
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250m
– 90-degree corners are available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE23020)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI23020)
Installing and securing the edging using a SHAPESCAPER stake driving tool
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS450R) Angled Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable for most applications; 4 stakes may be required for long straight runs, or when installed in loose or sandy soil
– Fit a connector to each length using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground. (please note using rivets is optional for most 230mm edging applications)
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and lay the stakes pointing towards the prepared trench
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing use the stake driving tool to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to guide your drill through the edging so the supplied rivets can inserted along the front face of the edging and secure the stakes above ground level.
Installing and securing the edging using pre augured holes (in very hard and rocky soil)
– Attach 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to drill through the edging and use supplied rivets to fit the stakes above ground level; rivets should be inserted along the front face of the edging (please note using rivets is optional for most 230mm edging applications)
– Fit a connector to each length similarly, using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground.
– Lower the completed edging one length at a time into the prepared excavation and fit off the connectors as you work along the run
– Use a string line to ensure the edging is running to the required gradient and use a level to check that all the edging is plumb. Timber bracing can be used to temporarily secure the edging
– Once a run is completed and secured with bracing, fill the holes around the stakes with concrete and let set
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– To accelerate the protective “rust” patina you can wash down the face of the edging with a mild detergent and then apply a 10% white vinegar solution.
– The edging will start developing a patina in about two weeks and become fully weathered between 6 months and two years depending on exposure to moisture. The use of stronger acid or salt will permanently damage the protective properties of weathering steel
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– Use a sealing compound such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint on any edging below ground, especially higher profile edging exposed to groundwater
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 80mm
– Auger 150mm diameter holes to a minimum depth of 340mm at a suitable spacing for the required number of stakes. A SHAPESCAPER stake driving tool may also be used where the ground density permits.
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 290mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 800mm onsite
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250m
– 90-degree corners are available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE29020)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI29020)
Installing and securing the edging using a SHAPESCAPER stake driving tool
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS580R) Angled Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable for most applications; 4 stakes may be required for long straight runs, or if installing in loose or sandy soil. 4 stakes are recommended when installing steps.
– Fit a connector to each length using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground.
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and lay the stakes pointing towards the prepared trench
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing use the stake driving tool to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to guide your drill through the edging so the supplied rivets can inserted along the front face of the edging and secure the stakes above ground level.
Installing and securing the edging using pre augured holes
– Attach 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to drill through the edging and use supplied rivets to fit the stakes above ground level; rivets should be inserted along the front face of the edging
– Fit a connector to each length similarly, using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground.
– Lower the completed edging one length at a time into the prepared excavation and fit off the connectors as you work along the run
– Use a string line to ensure the edging is running to the required gradient and use a level to check that all the edging is plumb. Timber bracing can be used to temporarily secure the edging
– Once a run is completed and secured with bracing, fill the holes around the stakes with concrete and let set (use a layer of plain gravel at the base of each hole to allow for drainage)
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– To accelerate the protective “rust” patina you can wash down the face of the edging with a mild detergent and then apply a 10% white vinegar solution.
– The edging will start developing a patina in about two weeks and become fully weathered between 6 months and two years depending on exposure to moisture. The use of stronger acid or salt will permanently damage the protective properties of weathering steel
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– Use a sealing compound compound such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint on any edging below ground, especially higher profile edging exposed to groundwater
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 100mm
– Auger 150mm diameter holes to a minimum depth of 440mm at a suitable spacing for the required number of stakes
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 390mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 1000mm onsite
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250mm
– 90-degree corners are available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE39020)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI39020)
Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS780R) Angled Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable for most applications; 4 stakes may be required for long straight runs, or if installing in loose or sandy soil.
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to drill through the edging and use supplied rivets to fit the stakes above ground level; rivets should be inserted along the front face of the edging
– Fit a connector to each length similarly, using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground.
– Lower the completed edging one length at a time into the prepared excavation and fit off the connectors as you work along the run
– Use a string line to ensure the edging is running to the required gradient and use a level to check that all the edging is plumb. Timber bracing can be used to temporarily secure the edging
– Once a run is completed and secured with bracing, fill the holes around the stakes with concrete and let set (use a layer of plain gravel at the base of each hole to allow for drainage)
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Install suitable drainage at the back of the edging; agg pipe with a geotextile sock and porous fill is preferred
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– To accelerate the protective “rust” patina you can wash down the face of the edging with a mild detergent and then apply a 10% white vinegar solution.
– The edging will start developing a patina in about two weeks and become fully weathered between 6 months and two years depending on exposure to moisture. The use of stronger acid or salt will permanently damage the protective properties of weathering steel
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– Use a sealing compound compound such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint on any edging below ground, especially higher profile edging exposed to groundwater
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 150mm
– Auger 150mm diameter holes to a minimum depth of 750mm at a suitable spacing for the required number of stakes
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 590mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 1000mm onsite
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250mm
– 90-degree corners are available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE59020)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI59020)
Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS1180R) Angled Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable for most applications; 4 stakes may be required for long straight runs, or if installing in loose or sandy soil.
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to drill through the edging and use supplied rivets to fit the stakes above ground level; rivets should be inserted along the front face of the edging
– Fit a connector to each length similarly, using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground.
– Lower the completed edging one length at a time into the prepared excavation and fit off the connectors as you work along the run
– Use a string line to ensure the edging is running to the required gradient and use a level to check that all the edging is plumb. Timber bracing can be used to temporarily secure the edging
– Once a run is completed and secured with bracing, fill the holes around the stakes with concrete and let set (use a layer of plain gravel at the base of each hole to allow for drainage)
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Install suitable drainage at the back of the edging; agg pipe with a geotextile sock and porous fill is preferred
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– To accelerate the protective “rust” patina you can wash down the face of the edging with a mild detergent and then apply a 10% white vinegar solution.
– The edging will start developing a patina in about two weeks and become fully weathered between 6 months and two years depending on exposure to moisture. The use of stronger acid or salt will permanently damage the protective properties of weathering steel
SHAPESCAPER Galvabond steel edging is essentially maintenance-free
– Abrasions will affect the protective layer and rust spots will develop unless treated Galvabond steel is a coated steel
Cleaning tips
– Occasional washing down with water
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualise the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– We recommend the use of a sealing compound on any edging below ground level
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 30mm
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 75mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 500mm onsite. Hand shape using your body weight to gently and gradually bend the edging. Hold the end of the edging up with one hand while running your other hand along the edging with downward pressure to form the curve. Work in small increments, slowly adding to the shape of the curve. If you curve a piece of edging too far simply apply pressure in a similar way from the other side to reduce the radius of the curve.
Hand shaping 90-degree corners and other angles
– Do not score the edging with an angle grinder when forming tight bends; this is unnecessary and weakens the corner.
– Can be easily hand bent onsite
– Achieve neat corners by marking the position at least 300mm from the end of a length. This will allow enough leverage to easily start bending the edging.
– Place a stake across the edging at the marked position and place your feet as close to the sides of the edging as possible to secure the stake.
– Avoid straining your back by using your knees and legs muscles to bend the edging slightly over 90 degrees, then adjust to the desired angle.
– Using a small piece of wood or similar under the end of the edging will make it easier to get your fingers underneath to start the bending process.
– The top part of the bend will have a neatly tucked-in curved lip.
– The lower part of the edging will have a gently rounded flare, which will be below ground level.
90-degree corners are also available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE75G20)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI75G20)
Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS230G) Ribbed Stake
– 3 stakes are suitable most for applications; 4 stakes maybe required for long straight runs, or when installed in loose or sandy soil
– Fit a connector to each edging length using two of the supplied hex head self-tapping screws, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the holes on the stakes
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing use a Dead blow hammer or rubber mallet to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– If the stakes holes don’t align with the existing edging holes simply screw into the edging using the holes in the back of the stakes as a guide
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– Wash down the face of the edging with water to clean
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualise the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– We recommend the use of a sealing compound on any edging below ground level
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 30mm
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 100mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 500mm onsite. Hand shape using your body weight to gently and gradually bend the edging. Hold the end of the edging up with one hand while running your other hand along the edging with downward pressure to form the curve. Work in small increments, slowly adding to the shape of the curve. If you curve a piece of edging too far simply apply pressure in a similar way from the other side to reduce the radius of the curve.
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250m
Hand shaping 90-degree corners and other angles
– Do not score the edging with an angle grinder when forming tight bends; this is unnecessary and weakens the corner.
– Can be easily hand bent onsite
– Achieve neat corners by marking the position at least 300mm from the end of a length. This will allow enough leverage to easily start bending the edging.
– Place a stake across the edging at the marked position and place your feet as close to the sides of the edging as possible to secure the stake.
– Avoid straining your back by using your knees and legs muscles to bend the edging slightly over 90 degrees, then adjust to the desired angle.
– Using a small piece of wood or similar under the end of the edging will make it easier to get your fingers underneath to start the bending process.
– The top part of the bend will have a neatly tucked-in curved lip.
– The lower part of the edging will have a gently rounded flare, which will be below ground level.
90-degree corners are also available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE10020)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI10020)
Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS300G) Ribbed Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable most applications; 4 stakes maybe required for long straight runs, or when installed in loose or sandy soil
– Fit a connector to each edging length using two of the supplied hex head self-tapping screws, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the holes on the stakes
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing use a Dead blow hammer or rubber mallet to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– If the stakes holes don’t align with the existing edging holes simply screw into the edging using the holes in the back of the stakes as a guide
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– Wash down the face of the edging with water to clean
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– We recommend the use of a sealing compound on any edging below ground level
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 40mm
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 150mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 500mm onsite. Hand shape using your body weight to gently and gradually bend the edging. Hold the end of the edging up with one hand while running your other hand along the edging with downward pressure to form the curve. Work in small increments, slowly adding to the shape of the curve. If you curve a piece of edging too far simply apply pressure in a similar way from the other side to reduce the radius of the curve.
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250m
Hand shaping 90-degree corners and other angles
– Do not score the edging with an angle grinder when forming tight bends; this is unnecessary and weakens the corner.
– Can be easily hand bent onsite
– Achieve neat corners by marking the position at least 300mm from the end of a length. This will allow enough leverage to easily start bending the edging.
– Place a stake across the edging at the marked position and place your feet as close to the sides of the edging as possible to secure the stake.
– Avoid straining your back by using your knees and legs muscles to bend the edging slightly over 90 degrees, then adjust to the desired angle.
– Using a small piece of wood or similar under the end of the edging will make it easier to get your fingers underneath to start the bending process.
– The top part of the bend will have a neatly tucked-in curved lip.
– The lower part of the edging will have a gently rounded flare, which will be below ground level.
90-degree corners are also available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE150G20)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI150G20)
Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS400G) Ribbed Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable most applications; 4 stakes maybe required for long straight runs, or when installed in loose or sandy soil
– Fit a connector to each edging length using two of the supplied hex head self-tapping screws, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the holes on the stakes
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing use a “dead blow” hammer or rubber mallet to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– If the stakes holes don’t align with the existing edging holes simply screw into the edging using the holes in the back of the stakes as a guide
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– Wash down the face of the edging with water to clean
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– We recommend the use of a sealing compound on any edging below ground level
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 50mm
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 185mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 500mm onsite. Hand shape using your body weight to gently and gradually bend the edging. Hold the end of the edging up with one hand while running your other hand along the edging with downward pressure to form the curve. Work in small increments, slowly adding to the shape of the curve. If you curve a piece of edging too far simply apply pressure in a similar way from the other side to reduce the radius of the curve and maintain the correct line.
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250m
Hand shaping 90-degree corners and other angles
– Do not score the edging with an angle grinder when forming tight bends; this is unnecessary and weakens the corner.
– Edging up to 185mm in height can be easily bent onsite.
– Achieve neat corners by marking the position at least 300mm from the end of a length. This will allow enough leverage to easily start bending the edging.
– Place a stake across the edging at the marked position and place your feet as close to the sides of the edging as possible to secure the stake.
– Avoid straining your back by using your knees and legs muscles to bend the edging slightly over 90 degrees, then adjust to the desired angle.
– Using a small piece of wood or similar under the end of the edging will make it easier to get your fingers underneath to start the bending process.
– The top part of the bend will have a neatly tucked-in curved lip.
– The lower part of the edging will have a gently rounded flare, which will be below ground level.
90-degree corners are also available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE185G20)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI185G20)
Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS400G) Ribbed Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable most for applications; 4 stakes maybe required for long straight runs, or when installed in loose or sandy soil
– Fit a connector to each edging length using two of the supplied hex head self-tapping screws, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the holes on the stakes
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing use a “dead blow” hammer or rubber mallet to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– If the stakes holes don’t align with the existing edging holes simply screw into the edging using the holes in the back of the stakes as a guide
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– Wash down the face of the edging with water to clean
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– We recommend the use of a sealing compound on any edging below ground level
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 70mm
– Auger 150mm diameter holes to a minimum depth of 270mm at a suitable spacing for the required number of stakes. A SHAPESCAPER stake driving tool may also be used where the ground density permits
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 230mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 700mm onsite
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250mm
90-degree corners are available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE230G20)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI230G20)
Installing and securing the edging using a SHAPESCAPER stake driving tool
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS450G) Angled Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable most applications; 4 stakes maybe required for long straight runs, or when installed in loose or sandy soil
– Fit a connector to each length using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground. (please note using rivets is optional for most 230mm edging applications)
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and lay the stakes pointing towards the prepared trench
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing use the stake driving tool to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to guide your drill through the edging so the supplied rivets can inserted along the front face of the edging and secure the stakes above ground level
Installing and securing the edging using pre augured holes (in very hard and rocky soil)
– Attach 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS450G) Angled Stakes
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to drill through the edging and use supplied rivets to fit the stakes above ground level; rivets should be inserted along the front face of the edging (please note using rivets is optional for most 230mm edging applications)
– Fit a connector to each length similarly, using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground.
– Lower the completed edging one length at a time into the prepared excavation and fit off the connectors as you work along the run
– Use a string line to ensure the edging is running to the required gradient and use a level to check that all the edging is plumb. Timber bracing can be used to temporarily secure the edging
– Once a run is completed and secured with bracing, fill the holes around the stakes with concrete and let set
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– Wash down the face of the edging with water to clean
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– Use a sealing compound on any edging below ground, especially higher profile edging exposed to groundwater
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 80mm
– Auger 150mm diameter holes to a minimum depth of 340mm at a suitable spacing for the required number of stakes. A SHAPESCAPER stake driving tool may also be used where the ground density permits
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 290mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 800mm onsite
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250m
90-degree corners are available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE29020)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI29020)
Installing and securing the edging using a SHAPESCAPER stake driving tool
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS580G) Angled Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable most applications; 4 stakes maybe required for long straight runs, or when installed in loose or sandy soil. 4 stakes are recommended when installing steps
– Fit a connector to each length using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground.
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and lay the stakes pointing towards the prepared trench
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing use the stake driving tool to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to guide your drill through the edging so the supplied rivets can inserted along the front face of the edging and secure the stakes above ground level
Installing and securing the edging using pre augured holes
– Attach 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS580G) Angled Stakes
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to drill through the edging and use supplied rivets to fit the stakes above ground level; rivets should be inserted along the front face of the edging
– Fit a connector to each length similarly, using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground
– Lower the completed edging one length at a time into the prepared excavation and fit off the connectors as you work along the run
– Use a string line to ensure the edging is running to the required gradient and use a level to check that all the edging is plumb. Timber bracing can be used to temporarily secure the edging
– Once a run is completed and secured with bracing, fill the holes around the stakes with concrete and let set (use a layer of plain gravel at the base of each hole to allow for drainage)
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– Wash down the face of the edging with water to clean
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualise the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– Use a sealing compound on any edging below ground, especially higher profile edging exposed to groundwater
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 100mm
– Auger 150mm diameter holes to a minimum depth of 440mm at a suitable spacing for the required number of stakes
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 390mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 1000mm onsite
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250mm
90-degree corners are available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE390G20)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI390G20)
Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS780G) Angled Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable for most applications; 4 stakes maybe required for long straight runs, or when installed in loose or sandy soil
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to drill through the edging and use supplied rivets to fit the stakes above ground level; rivets should be inserted along the front face of the edging
– Fit a connector to each length similarly, using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground.
– Lower the completed edging one length at a time into the prepared excavation and fit off the connectors as you work along the run
– Use a string line to ensure the edging is running to the required gradient and use a level to check that all the edging is plumb. Timber bracing can be used to temporarily secure the edging
– Once a run is completed and secured with bracing, fill the holes around the stakes with concrete and let set (use a layer of plain gravel at the base of each hole to allow for drainage)
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Install suitable drainage at the back of the edging; agg pipe with a geotextile sock and porous fill is preferred
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– Wash down the face of the edging with water to clean
Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– Use a sealing compound on any edging below ground, especially higher profile edging exposed to groundwater
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 150mm
– Auger 150mm diameter holes to a minimum depth of 750mm at a suitable spacing for the required number of stakes
Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 590mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 1000mm onsite
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250mm
90-degree corners are available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE590G20)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI590G20)
Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS1180G) Angled Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable for most applications; 4 stakes maybe required for long straight runs, or when installed in loose or sandy soil
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– Use the existing holes in the back of the stakes to drill through the edging and use supplied rivets to fit the stakes above ground level; rivets should be inserted along the front face of the edging
– Fit a connector to each length similarly, using two hex heads below ground and rivets above ground, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground.
– Lower the completed edging one length at a time into the prepared excavation and fit off the connectors as you work along the run
– Use a string line to ensure the edging is running to the required gradient and use a level to check that all the edging is plumb. Timber bracing can be used to temporarily secure the edging
– Once a run is completed and secured with bracing, fill the holes around the stakes with concrete and let set (use a layer of plain gravel at the base of each hole to allow for drainage)
Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Install suitable drainage at the back of the edging; agg pipe with a geotextile sock and porous fill is preferred
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– Wash down the face of the edging with water to clean